Full

The Italian from Verona I met on the road said it well. “I’m full,” he said. He was done for the day.

This was part of a conversation we were having across the highway, cars passing between us. He was heading north. I was heading south. Just a little chat, a “ciao” and one of those Italian blown kisses and that was the end of that.

But today I feel like the Italian from Verona. I’m full. I’ve had enough cycling for today. It’s not that I cycled more than other days. I did 72. Those 72, however, had a bit of everything.

First off, I got an early start because I was in a race to cover 24 miles to catch the ferry at 11 a.m. to Andenes. I started at 8 a.m. For anyone who cycles that sounds like plenty of time, but as my Australian campsite neighbors (also cyclists) said: “it just depends on how many hills.” And there were hills. A pretty big climb, in fact. And there were tunnels, some long dark cold ones, in fact. They’re one-laners so I’m sure they’re kind of scary for cars too. Cyclists push a button before they enter so a flashing light at the entrance tells the cars that there’s a cyclist in the tunnel.

I did make it to the ferry. I ate my hot dog (they’re a staple on Norwegian ferries. I’m making a habit of eating one every time I’m onboard) and fell asleep during the long crossing despite the screaming French toddlers next booth over whose parents seemed oblivious to it. Next thing I know I wake up to a kind stranger squatting down in front of me (I’m laying down in the booth) telling me it’s time to wake up, that we’ve gotten to land. Travel exhaustion nap.

I stumble down to the car deck and wait my turn to ride my bike off the ferry. I’m starting the second half of my ride half-asleep. That might be why I got lost. Instead of checking out the map during the ferry ride, I was comatose.

After a couple of miles worth of passing the same corner “snark shop” -that’s what they’re called – I wake up and get my bearings. I then cycled for 20-some miles before the rain hit. I finally got to use my rain jacket for rain. Mainly I’ve just used it because I was cold, but it works well for rain too. Just couldn’t figure out how to tighten the hood while on the bike so every time a truck came by it would blow off. Aughh… About the time I decided I should stop and put on the rain pants and shoe covers as well, the sky cleared.

So big climbs; cold, scary tunnels; rain and sun, all packed into 72 miles. That’s enough for the day. I’m full.

I’m on Hinnøya Island. Part of the Vesterålen archipelago. Rode the length of Andøya Island after crossing over from Senja. The Vesterålen archipelago is still 300 km from the southern limit of the Arctic Circle.