A wet, wonderful farewell

What a wonderfully wet day to ride my last few kilometers in Norway.

It has been raining here in Bergen since yesterday and I knew rain was in the forecast for today, but riding in the rain was the least of my concerns. Been there, done that, had the gear for it.

I was more concerned about getting to the bike shop that had said they’d have a cardboard box waiting for me. Wasn’t sure about my next move after that, but the bike box was the critical ingredient to any possible game plan. Airlines require bikes to be packed.

So all my communication with the bike shop had been via e-mail. They told me last week they had a box and they’d set it aside. Then I found out just yesterday they were closed on Mondays. What if they had forgotten and thrown the box away? Man, if they didn’t have a box, I would be working in panic mode to find something for my 3:30 p.m. flight.

They opened at 8:30 a.m., but I decided I needed food and coffee beforehand to be ready for whatever. After a hit of caffeine I was prepared for a scramble, if need be.

But as soon as I walked into Pedalen sykkelverksted all my worries were put to rest. They not only had a box for me, they let me break down my bike in their dry shop and pack it there; they offered me coffee; helped with the breakdown and eventually helped me carry the loaded box to the nearby Bybanen stop where I could board the wlight rail to the airport. What a Norwegian send off!

Pedalen sykkelverksted, you guys are the best! Thanks for the send off!

And speaking of Norwegian send offs, as I was riding toward the city center from my hotel, rain in my face and the wind whipping, there were a couple of guys along the cycle path with big green signs saying “Takk syklister” (thank you, cyclists). I was by no means the only one cycling this morning, but it was nice being cheered on. I was participating in the cycle culture of a big European city. Pretty cool.

Now I’m at the airport. Cost me less than $4 to get here by public transportation. Had help along the way with lifting, turning, navigating.

I think the thing I’ve appreciated more than anything on this trip is the kindness of strangers and the beauty in making those connections with other human beings.

After 30 days on the road I found myself in a big city tourist stop hotel. When I went down for breakfast two days ago the very first thing I noticed was that nobody made eye contact, much less said, “Hei!”

What had happened? On the way back to my room I realized I was now the guy in the homeowners’ insurance commercial talking to strangers in the elevator. They were a bit shocked, but they responded. I guess I had them trapped.

I read a book about human contact, human relations last spring. The basic gist of the Harvard 80-some-year study (the longest of its kind) was that humans need humans. Deep relationships make for a good life, but even talking to strangers in public places on public transport, etc. generates a sense of well-being. I have confirmed that on this trip.

Gaytan, the French girl, made me aware of it first, but there were so many others: From the Italian from Verona with whom I talked across the highway with cars passing between us, to the sweet elderly ladies in the organized camps that squeezed my shoulder and wished me a “God tur,” to the Pedalen staff, to all the cyclists on the ferries.

More than proving to the Norwegian immigration officer from Oslo (and to myself, for that matter) that this viejita can ride the length of his hilly country and live to tell the tale, this trip was really about how I’m just one of a multitude of sojourners on earth. We’re not so very different: we need one another in the flesh. There are no substitutes for that. Even strangers have their very necessary place in our lives.

Thank you, Norway, and thank you, Lord, for the lesson.

God tur!

That was fun

Kind of the back side of Bergen. I snuck in the back door. The bike route takes you through back roads and neighborhoods to avoid traffic.

My arrival to Bergen was pretty anticlimactic.

First, I arrived to the wrong hotel. I had been looking at two different ones last night and had it in my head that I had booked the other one. “I made it! Uh….oh, sorry. Wrong hotel.” Something along those lines.

When I arrived at the hotel I had actually booked the lady at reception was dealing with some problematic guests so I stood to the side waiting maybe 15 minutes until that was resolved.

The approach. I was still about 5 km away. Busy place. Lots of tourists. I heard a lot of American accents. So this is where all the Americans hang out!

Nevertheless, I’m feeling mighty fine. As I was rolling in to the harbor area, I couldn’t believe I had just done that. Nobody was aware of my accomplishment. None of the thousands of tourists milling about and taking pictures knew that my odyssey was ending except me. And it didn’t really matter.

Nørdkapp to Bergen, a journey of 1,850 miles following the Euro Velo 1 Atlantic Coastal Route (Norway section), in 30 days.

Yesterday, I asked the Brit, who had done a number of long bike tours, how he felt after each one. (I guess I was kind of examining how I was feeling about getting near the end.) “There’s a lot of satisfaction, if I’m quite honest.”

My sentiments exactly.

By the way, if you check out my Strava feed, see if you can see all the times I got lost. There’s one smudge in particular. It’s me wandering around in a playground trying to find the trail. Playground wasn’t part of the trail. Had to back track to figure it out.

Headed to the barn

Years ago I went pony riding in Wales. My friends had really talked it up and we all went one weekend.

When I saw the ponies I was not impressed. Stubby little things, mostly nags. When we each got ours and headed out they never did more than a slow walk the few miles over the skirt of the hills to the pub where we met our other friends for lunch.

Then it was time to head back to the barn.

I’ve never seen such a transformation. All of a sudden these ponies were racing, jumping ravines and kicking up mud as they ran. In fact, I had a clump of mud lodged between my eye and my glasses, but couldn’t get it out because I was holding on to the reins for dear life.

Well, this isn’t quite that, but I did get a little inspired when I saw my first sign for Bergen. And I did put in another 16 miles after my third ferry, rolling into the campsite at nearly 10 p.m. (It gets dark at 10:30)

I was in a hurry to get to camp before it got dark, but had to get this pic. Very nice.

I woke up tired this morning from all the hills yesterday. Really didn’t know how far I’d go. Not really feeling it. But the day ended up being a fun one because there was a small group of us meeting up at each ferry.

We were three French, one Brit, one German (whom I had previously met near Ålesund), and one American (me). I also met a German girl at the ferry terminal on her way north. Just good camaraderie all the way around, comparing notes, talking campsites, commiserating about the hills.

Turns out, I’m the only one that did the first of the two big climbs yesterday. They had all heard that the mountain road was closed so they hitched a ride through the tunnel. I guess technically the road was closed. There was a sign saying so at the bottom, but this wasn’t my first closed road that was really open so I just climbed and hoped for the best.

That’s a sight for sore eyes.

Anyway, before the last ferry I started seeing road signs for Bergen…and more importantly Euro Velo cycling signs for Bergen. And my guidebook said that after the third ferry the hills were “gentle.” After a month of riding all sorts of hills, I know my gentle hills and I love them. I decided to push on to get within a short day’s cycle from my final destination.

I am now 31 miles from finishing.

More later. It’s 11:30 p.m. I’m now dry and warm and my tent’s waiting for me…one more night.

7 percent

Not my favorite road sign in the world. This was a short bit. I did one today that was six at least fue miles long.

As in climbs at a 7 percent gradient. My guide book calls them “mountain gradients.” I realized from my Strava app that I had even done a 10 percent. I just know they’re hard and I’ve done several of these climbs in the last couple of days. My legs are tired.

Big climbs bring nice views though.

My stuff is on it’s last leg as well. I knew I would need some duct tape at some point before the journey was over. I usually bring some, but I didn’t this time. Then a strap on my back bag broke. It’s nice to know Norway knows about duct tape.

Duct tape to the rescue. Hang in there. We only have a few more days.

70 miles down today. Around 120 to go to get to Bergen.

From Myklebost

It’s not like I don’t have time to write.

I’ve been sitting at a bus stop for an hour now. Sat at a ferry dock for nearly two hours before that, waiting on a ferry that stopped running last year.

I’m thankful that the Norwegian cyclists who got off the bus saw my bike and came to check on me and to tell me the only way off this Island is by bus.

Yep, by bus because as I’m finding out around these parts, they like making tunnels under the water. I already had to ride one bus out of Kristiansund because of the tunnel. Bicycles are prohibited. They are in this series of tunnels as well.

So here I am waiting for the bus l think and hope will be coming by in the next couple of hours. I cycled back to the other end of the island (3 miles) to buy food at the grocery store and the guy there seemed to think my bus would come by. So now I’ve cycled back, eaten my “taco burrito” and now I’m waiting at the entrance to the tunnel.

This morning I was up and breaking camp at 6 a.m. to race to catch my first ferry so I’d have enough time to cycle to my next ferry. I think I broke a personal average speed record. I did 13 miles in a whopping 12.6 miles per hour, then beat that on my next six with a 12.9. I hit those ferries just to get stuck at the third on Harøya Island.

I will say that these islands have been lovely and not all due to the fact that they are generally flat.

Lots of boats and no public transportation.
Grass on the roof. I’ve seen this all over Norway, but even more on the islands. Not sure what that’s about.

My goal today is Ålesund. It’s meant to be a lovely harbor city. Today, I think, will be more about mastering public transportation in Norway than cycling. Even so, if my calculations are correct, I’m less than 400 miles from my final destination, Bergen.

Just a little practical information for anyone that might be planning to ride the Norwegian section of the Atlantic Coastal Route (or for the authors of the Euro Velo 1 guidebook, or for Google, for that matter) there is no longer a Harøya-Brattvåg ferry.

Random, but I had to take a pic. I don’t think they get Mexican. Kind of goes along with the “taco burrito”