Years ago I went pony riding in Wales. My friends had really talked it up and we all went one weekend.
When I saw the ponies I was not impressed. Stubby little things, mostly nags. When we each got ours and headed out they never did more than a slow walk the few miles over the skirt of the hills to the pub where we met our other friends for lunch.
Then it was time to head back to the barn.
I’ve never seen such a transformation. All of a sudden these ponies were racing, jumping ravines and kicking up mud as they ran. In fact, I had a clump of mud lodged between my eye and my glasses, but couldn’t get it out because I was holding on to the reins for dear life.
Well, this isn’t quite that, but I did get a little inspired when I saw my first sign for Bergen. And I did put in another 16 miles after my third ferry, rolling into the campsite at nearly 10 p.m. (It gets dark at 10:30)

I woke up tired this morning from all the hills yesterday. Really didn’t know how far I’d go. Not really feeling it. But the day ended up being a fun one because there was a small group of us meeting up at each ferry.
We were three French, one Brit, one German (whom I had previously met near Ålesund), and one American (me). I also met a German girl at the ferry terminal on her way north. Just good camaraderie all the way around, comparing notes, talking campsites, commiserating about the hills.
Turns out, I’m the only one that did the first of the two big climbs yesterday. They had all heard that the mountain road was closed so they hitched a ride through the tunnel. I guess technically the road was closed. There was a sign saying so at the bottom, but this wasn’t my first closed road that was really open so I just climbed and hoped for the best.

Anyway, before the last ferry I started seeing road signs for Bergen…and more importantly Euro Velo cycling signs for Bergen. And my guidebook said that after the third ferry the hills were “gentle.” After a month of riding all sorts of hills, I know my gentle hills and I love them. I decided to push on to get within a short day’s cycle from my final destination.
I am now 31 miles from finishing.
More later. It’s 11:30 p.m. I’m now dry and warm and my tent’s waiting for me…one more night.