From Trømso

It’s been 10 days since I got on an airplane headed this way, and it’s been seven since I started cycling. Counting my ride up to the starting point at Nørdkapp, I’ve covered 355 miles (575 km).

Wednesday was my longest day this week. I rode 82 miles. I felt refreshed after only about 30 miles and a day of checking out the local museums in Alta on Tuesday. Apparently, it’s a primo spot to observe the Northern Lights, though 24-hour daylight makes it hard in the summer. I hit one cathedral/museum (the government helped build it because until recently – 2012 – the Church of Norway and Lutheranism was the state religion of the country. Now it’s independent, but still receives financial support.) I found that more interesting than the actual Northern Lights Cathedral itself with its architectural design that represents – you guessed it – the Northern Lights, but it made for a nice stop.

Then it was on to the Alta Museum that protects some of the region’s ancient rock art scattered over a 3 km area. Some of it’s pretty good. Some of it looks like junior was pecking away at dad’s side. Fascinating stuff, nonetheless. By ancient we’re talking 2,000 to 7,000 years old. It’s a UNESCO-designated world heritage site so I felt that was a pretty good excuse to go easy on the cycling.

At the museum I got to try dried fish and reindeer heart as well. Let’s just say, I’d eat it if it’s all I had after a long ride, which is the same I would say about the whale burger I ate yesterday in Tromsø. Whale tastes like beef with a little fish mixed in. Been there, done that, probably won’t do it again.

Tromsø is where I am this morning. It’s rainy outside and I’m torn between staying another day here to check out more museums (and rest from cycling) or to hit the road.

I’ve rested some (short cycling day yesterday), refueled on whale, had a cozy night at a family-owned hotel and I’ve even washed my clothes for the first time in a week. Ami Hotel is not on the main hotels app. I found it on Airbnb, just fyi. It has been perfect. Free laundry, a fridge in the room, a kitchen and lounge downstairs and a place to store my bike. Oh, and free kaffe and espresso from the little machine down in the kitchen.

I’ve been thinking during my rides over the last few days about sending some clothes home from Tromsø. Thought I wouldn’t need my thermal gear anymore, but the nice Norwegian couple I met on my 82-mile-day told me it was cold and rainy in the south where they were from. They were just sitting at a rest stop in camping chairs soaking up the sun. They asked me if I had clothes for the cold. It was in the 70s at the time and my face was already sunburnt despite factor 70 sunscreen (the arctic sun is intense). I assured them I did, but didn’t tell them I was considering ditching them. How could it be colder the farther south I went? I’m learning to listen to the locals.

In fact, if it hadn’t been for the nice local guy in Alta who gave me specific instructions on how to get around the 30 meters of missing road that my little Velo Cycle Route book failed to mention, I would have been discouraged and would have retraced the five miles or so to brave the long tunnel on the main highway. As it turned out, I got a sweet little spot for my first night of wild camping and a quiet ride on the other side of the missing road that the avalanche took. Never mind that passing the roadblock was forbudt, the guy assured me it was the way to go…his family had a cabin up there.

Just asked the owner if my room was available for another night. It is. Decision made. I’m off to explore Tromsø. It’s the biggest town I’ve been in so far…is probably even considered a city. Kind of touristy, but I feel like being a tourist in Norway today.